Precious absolutes
Formulas of many perfumes, created in France before the Second World War, have been based on essences, oils and absolutes. Some of them were simply lost and do not exist any more.
Telling about new aroma Joy, perfumer Jean Michel Duriez has hastened to specify: in spite of the fact that on a paper composition Joy completely repeats formula Alméras, the probability of deviations of notes is great. Hardly absolute jasmine, extracted today in Grass, completely corresponds to that one, made in the same place tens years ago. So, the aroma can sound differently.
While absolute jasmine was never considered as special luxury, but gardenia was regarded as a subject of admiration during 1912-1938. The most famous aromas, which contain this eternal aroma, are Crêpe de Chine from Millot, Gardenia from Rallet and Velvet Gardenia from Tom Ford.
Violet was the queen of post war epoch. Today this aroma is represented by Lipstick Rose and Dans Tes Bras from Frédéric Malle. So, you have a great chance to touch the history.